With men upgrading their footwear
more and more, new aspects of shoes have become grist for the design statement
mill. Generations ago, the different shapes of shoemaking lasts were
sculpted mostly to fit differently shaped feet -- i.e. high or low arches, long
insteps or high insteps, long toes or short toes... Somewhere along the
way, differently shaped lasts -- offering choices of rounded toes, flat toes,
square toes, extended toes, flat vamps, sloping vamps -- became a key
design variable for the sake of a "look".
These days, it's the sole, the
leather textures and colors, and the sidewall finishing that allow for new
design statements. Over the past three years, we've introduced several
new styles with new combinations of “rough” or colored leathers,
"toasted" sidewalls that show the lamination layers in the heels,
colored welts and stitching, natural sidewalls that highlight the sole and heel
as never before, and new variations of rubberized soles for winter wear that
still look sleek and elegant.
New this fall are a few sturdier
soles that fit the shoes they're attached to incredibly well. One of my
favorites is the sole on the MOJAVE desert boot style. This is an update
on the shoe that many of us wore in the 1970s, only this version is made of
very high quality leathers (buttery unlined suede or glove-like calfskin) and a
crepe rubber sole that's like walking on an air cushion. Accented by a
natural double reverse welt all around the shoe, each of the leather choices is
a unique look. It's a perfect "kick around" jeans shoe.
Another great jeans, wool flannel
and corduroy shoe for the fall and winter is our PINE RIVER. This rugged
double monk strap shoe is built on the same pattern as our very popular
"MORA", only the leather used is saddle cowhide, not fine
calfskin. The Dainite sole is a new sole for us, one that I know men are
going to gravitate to. It's already very popular in B. Nelson Shoes – our
favorite New York City shoe repair shop, run by our friend Nick Valenti -- as a
replacement on still-new shoes. It's a very sturdy rubber sole with a
great traction design, but it's surprisingly lightweight. The Dainite
heel "top lift" allows us to put a distinctive-looking leather layer
in between. Check this one out. It's one of our most subtly
creative new shoes ever. We're using the Dainite sole on the PROMONTORY
POINT boot as well -- the perfect boot for a hike in the fallen leaves, for a
day in the stands at a football game or just for raking the yard.
There are some other cool new soles on shoes this fall. We designed a new walking sole that you can see on our already-popular VOYAGER style. Our ROTHSAY casual boot uses a cream-colored harrier rubber sole with the traction-savvy wave pattern on it that's more of a hunter's look. And our GUIDARE tasseled driving moccasins from Italy have a brand new sole on them, too -- a sole that feels like a true driving moccasin but also handles the weather all winter long. You don't have to give up on durability now to get that driving moccasin feel.
Speaking of the MORA, it's back by
popular demand as another of our new styles this fall. We discontinued
the first Mora edition a few years ago because, frankly, we didn't think we had
the fit just right. After quite a bit of pattern work and "fit
trials" on a lot of feet, we felt the style was ready for an overdue
comeback. The MORA 2.0 is the result -- a very classy and unique statement
shoe for the office or special nights out.
We take new product development
very seriously at Allen Edmonds. It's a never ending process for
us. I hope you like what we've come up with for Fall ’13!
Best wishes,
Paul